留学在线 2024-04-21 13:10:09
ART EDUCATION ///
FASH
ION
坎布雷国立视觉艺术高等学院
La Cambre National School of Visual Arts
BELGIUN'S FASHION
#MAP#
比利时的时尚版图,一点也不渺小。而作为“比利时之心”的布鲁塞尔,有着在艺术类高等教育领域中首屈一指的国家级专业院校:坎布雷国立视觉艺术高等学院。
Belgium's fashion map is in no way small. Brussels, the heart of Belgium, is home to one of the country’s leading institutions of higher learning for arts - La Cambre National School of Visual Arts (Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Arts Visuels La Cambre)
当亨利·范·维尔创建学院时,他已经60多岁了。直到1927年才实现自己的梦想:创建一个关于艺术教育的“实验室”。
When Henry van de Velde (1863- 1957) founded the School of La Cambre, which at that time was called the Superior Institute of Decorative Arts – he was already over 60 years old. Until 1927, he had finally realized his dream: build his pedagogical “laboratory”.
Henry van de Velde
亨利·范·维尔
尽管遭到了学术界的抵制,学院依旧在修道院这个特殊地点诞生。召集的第一批教师均来自比利时艺术的前卫派,1927年9月开始,学院已经拥有了80名学生。
现如今,学院有19门艺术课程。其中很多专业在欧洲都是非常的罕见。
In spite of the resistance by the academia, the school was established on the historic eponymous site of the Abbey of La Cambre. The first group of teachers hired were all part of the Belgian avant-garde. By September 1927, the school had enrolled 80 students.
The school offers 19 art courses and many of the specialized studies are uncommon in Europe.
THE
ART/
La Cambre
National School of Visual Arts
而在今年,中国水墨画艺术走入学院的“创举”,恰好证明了学院的不断创新、开拓与发展自身的教学领域。
从1929年的第一批毕业生中开始,直到如今,我们依然可以举出许许多多同时代在这所学院毕业的艺术家们。
This year, the school has introduced Chinese ink painting into its programs, a move that demonstrates the school's constant drive for innovation, exploration and development of its own education.
From the first group of graduates in 1929 till now, the school has produced many notable alumni artists.
01 #
· Oliver Theyskens
THE
ARTISTS/
Olivier Theyskens,毕业于学院的时装设计。个人品牌一经创立就被麦当娜相中。曾做过Rochas、Nina Ricci、Theory的创意总监。
Olivier Theyskens, studied fashion design at La Cambre. His own label, when first created, was chosen by Madonna. He was appointed the creative director of Rochas, Nina Ricci, and Theory.
在最新的SS22这22个LOOK中,用回收以及剩余面料打造了SS22新系列,并且每一件都是纯手工不量产,每一件都是孤品,仅此一件。
In the latest SS22 collection, all the 22 looks are created with recyled and cut-off fabrics. The pieces will not go into production but alternatively, each unique garment will be sold to one unique client.
02 #
· Anthony Vaccarello
THE
ARTISTS/
当Vaccarello的名字开始出现在各大新闻中后,范思哲(Versace)便邀请他为副线品牌Versus设计胶囊系列。
When Vaccarello’s name began to appear in the press, Versace appointed him as the next capsule collection designer for Versus Versace, the Italian company’s cool sister brand.
Versus
从2015至2016,虽然只为Versus贡献了四个季度的才华,但他的设计手法为Versus的形象注入了无限创意。
Although he has only contributed four seasons of his talent for Versus from 2015 to 2016, his designing approach has brought boundless creativity to the image of Versus.
【Saint Laurent SS22】
自2016年开始,Anthony Vaccarello被受邀担任Saint Laurent的创意总监。在今年的Saint Laurent SS22中,他的设计以一种颠覆性的复古回归,呈现出精心雕琢后的性感。
From 2016, Anthony Vaccarello moved on to take the creative helm of Saint Laurent. At the SS22 of Saint Laurent in this year, his design makes a disruptive comeback, paying homage to vintage fashion and presenting a well-crafted sensuality.
03 #
· Julien Dossena
THE
ARTISTS/
Julien Dossena,最初以一名艺术史专业学生的身份来到了学院。
2013年刚进入品牌Paco Rabanne不久的他担任设计顾问,直到被品牌任命为新一代的创意总监。
Julien Dossena joined La Cambre with an academic background in art history.
In 2013, he worked as a design consultant at Paco Rabanne and was appointed later as the next creative director for the house.
在品牌新一季的SS22设计中,重塑最初构成Paco Rabanne身份的锁子甲与金属亮片。整场秀就好像身入“70年代波西米亚”的氛围中。
The SS22 collection of the house reshapes the optic effect that has defined the original identity of Paco Rabanne . The whole show has created a Bohemian atmosphere of the 1970's.
04 #
· Ester Manas
THE
ARTISTS/
“如果别人不能改变世界,那就由我来改变。”当时还是学生的Ester Manas 和 Balthazar Delepierre在学院相遇,并决定共同创建品牌Ester Manas。
“If they can't change the world, we will.” When Ester Manas and Balthazar Delepiere met in the school as students, they had decided to co-found the brand Ester Manas.
与传统意义的大码女装不同的是,只生产一种尺码的Ester Manas,一直致力于探索如何通过特殊工艺和面料让服装更具有包容性,将“Over size fits all”的理念坚持到底。
Different from the conventional plus-sized womenswear, Ester Mana is committed to creating “one-size-fit-all” pieces by exploring ways to make the garments more inclusive through special processes and fabrics.
THE
ART/
“Over size fits all”
除了这些知名校友外,在校生也没有停下设计的脚步。
学院的La Cambre Modes每年都会为主修时尚设计的学生们一次展现自己作品的机会。今年的La Cambre 在工作室254Forest开展。
Apart from these renowned alumni, the students currently studying in the school are also working hard on designing.
Every year, La Cambre Modes of the school offers an opportunity for the fashion design students to present their own works. This year’s event will be held in 254 Forest.
La Cambre
254Forest
坎布雷国立视觉艺术高等学院不简单是指代这一学校而已,它更像是一个囊括了全部艺术形式的大标签。这个老牌艺术学院,俨然成为了当代艺术先锋的孵化器。
La Cambre National School of Visual Arts is more than just a school. It is more like a grand label that encompasses all kinds of arts. This time-honored school is poised to become the incubator for contemporary avant-garde.
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